How to Cook Lobster Risotto Like a Chef
Lobster risotto has been part of my cooking for many years. In the Maldives, I returned to the dish with the same idea I had written about earlier: let the ingredient remain the protagonist, and use technique to support it rather than hide it.
The connection goes back to About Simplicity, one of the earliest pieces in this Journal archive. The principle is still the same, but this version turns that idea into a complete recipe that can also be attempted at home.
The key is the bisque. It provides the depth and concentration that allow the risotto to taste clearly of lobster without needing unnecessary complexity.
Lobster Bisque
Ingredients
- Shells from 1 lobster
- 1 carrot
- 1 shallot
- 10 cherry tomatoes, or about 100 g peeled tomatoes
- 1/2 glass Cognac or brandy
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 teaspoon paprika
- Salt and black pepper
- Optional: a very small pinch of cinnamon
- Optional: a few drops of balsamic vinegar
Method
- Chop the carrot and shallot, halve the cherry tomatoes and cook them gently in the olive oil in a high-sided saucepan for about 10 minutes.
- Add the lobster shells and cook until they become aromatic and lightly coloured.
- Deglaze with the Cognac or brandy and allow the alcohol to evaporate.
- Add enough hot water or light vegetable stock to cover the shells and simmer for at least 30 minutes.
- For a professional kitchen, the shells can be processed with suitable heavy-duty equipment before straining. At home, it is safer to crush the shells well, continue simmering and then strain firmly through a fine sieve rather than blending hard shell pieces in an ordinary blender.
- Return the strained liquid to the heat. Season with salt, pepper and paprika. If using them, add only a very small amount of cinnamon and a few drops of balsamic vinegar.
- Reduce gently until the flavour is concentrated but the bisque remains fluid enough to use as the main cooking liquid for the risotto.
Lobster Risotto
Serves 2
- 170 g Carnaroli rice
- 100 ml dry white wine
- 1 lobster, about 1 kg
- 30 g onion, finely chopped
- 10 g curly parsley
- 50 ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little more if needed
- A few drops of lemon juice
- Lobster bisque, kept hot
Method
- Briefly cook the lobster in boiling water for about 5 minutes, then remove the meat from the shell. Reserve the shells for the bisque. Finish cooking the lobster meat gently before serving so that it is fully cooked without becoming dry.
- Cook the chopped onion gently in a little extra-virgin olive oil until soft and translucent.
- Add the Carnaroli rice and toast it for about 3–4 minutes, stirring so that the grains heat evenly.
- Add the white wine and allow the alcohol to evaporate.
- Begin adding the hot lobster bisque gradually. Stir regularly and add more liquid as the rice absorbs it. There is no need to stir continuously, but the risotto should remain under control throughout cooking.
- Cook until the rice is al dente and the risotto is fluid rather than dry. Depending on the rice and heat, this will usually take around 17–20 minutes.
- Remove from the heat. Add extra-virgin olive oil and a few drops of lemon juice, then stir vigorously to create a smooth, creamy consistency.
- Finish with pieces of lobster and parsley. If you wish, garnish with an edible flower, oven-dried tomatoes or a small edible coral tuile.
Edible Coral Tuile
This is the decorative crisp used in the original version of the dish.
- 50 g water
- 5 g plain flour
- Optional food colouring
- A small amount of neutral high-smoke-point oil for the pan
- Whisk the water and flour until completely smooth. Add food colouring only if desired.
- Heat a non-stick pan with only a very thin film of neutral oil.
- Pour in a small amount of the mixture. It will bubble strongly as the water evaporates and the characteristic coral pattern forms.
- Cook until the bubbling has almost stopped and the tuile is crisp, then lift it out carefully and drain it on kitchen paper.
Chef’s Note
If you prefer a richer and more traditional finish, you can add a small amount of butter and finely grated Parmesan during the final mantecatura. The version above keeps the flavour lighter and allows the lobster and bisque to remain more prominent.
The best risotto should feel generous and precise at the same time: clear flavour, properly cooked rice and enough movement on the plate to remain creamy.
Cristian Marino
Originally published on 1 July 2022. This Journal archive edition has been edited for language, measurements and presentation while preserving the original recipe, photographs and publication date.
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